It was dusk. A soft breeze whisked away the heat of the day. I rocked slowly back and forth on the porch swing of my cottage, intoxicated by the sweet scent of moonflowers. Juice from an early-ripening peach dribbled down my chin. Could it get any better than this?
Where to Stay
I was a guest at Hill Country Herb Garden and Spa (HillCountryHerbGarden.com) in the small town of Fredericksburg, Texas—one of my favorite getaways—and the perfect destination for a great girls’ trip.
The 14 cottages at Hill Country Herb Garden are reminiscent of the traditional Sunday houses, which early German settler-farmers built for their families coming to town for marketing and church on weekends. Each is perfect for two guests—and a European-style breakfast basket at the door is the perfect way to start the day. (If you have a group, they do have a large house that accommodates up to 16.)
You could spend your entire stay on the property, walking in the gardens, eating in the restaurant, taking a yoga class or luxuriating in a spa treatment. But there’s a lot to do and see in Fredericksburg.
Accommodations in town range from popular chain hotels, small motels, guesthouses and over 1,500 Airbnb properties. There are reasons this is such a popular destination.
Things to Do & Dining
Fredericksburg (VisitFredericksburgTX.com) is in the heart of Texas wine country, with 50 wineries in the county alone. You’ll find several tasting rooms on Main Street, or you can make your own wine trail in the surrounding hill country. Several companies conduct wine tours if you’re worried about drinking and driving.
Shopping is one of the major activities of visitors. Main Street is packed chock-a-block with shops, including excellent art galleries like Gallery 330 and Insight Gallery, and two of my favorite shops, Der Kuchen Laden and Chocolat.
Der Kuchen Laden is full of everything you need for the kitchen—and lots of things you didn’t know you needed until you stopped here. Chocolat owner Lecia Duke is the only chocolatier in the United States who uses a centuries-old, European technique to create chocolates filled with liquid liqueurs and wine.
You could spend several days just shopping on Main Street, but there are special treats elsewhere, too. Across the street from one another on Lincoln are two of these.
Blackchalk Home and Laundry, in a historic building, carries new and vintage home décor, furniture, lighting, accessories and more. Carol Hicks Bolton Antiquities specializes in imported items from France. From fine linens to antique signs to even taxidermized animals, merchandise here will fascinate—if not inspire—you.
Further afield, Wildseed Farm, the nation’s largest working wildflower farm, is not only a gorgeous place to see but a great spot to shop for gifts, décor, pottery and native plants.
Fredericksburg is also rich in history. Learn about its early German settlement—and the treaty between the settlers and the Comanche Nation, the only U.S./Native American treaty never to have been broken—at the Pioneer Museum.
History
The town was also the birthplace of Admiral Chester Nimitz. An elaborate steamboat-style, wooden structure on Main Street is a reconstruction of a hotel owned by the admiral’s grandfather. The building is part of the National Museum of the Pacific War, which encompasses the Admiral Nimitz Museum, the Admiral Nimitz Bookstore, The George H.W. Bush Gallery (the extensive museum on World War II in the Pacific), the Plaza of the Presidents and the Japanese Garden of Peace. This complex is a destination all by itself.
If your time is limited, get a good overview by booking a narrated history tour with Fredericksburg Trolley Tours. Book online ahead of time to be sure you can get a reservation.
More Dining Options
Of course, eating is a part of any good trip, and Fredericksburg has plenty of options.
For breakfast: The Caliche Coffee Bar food menu is not extensive, but I can attest to the avocado toast with avocado, seven-minute eggs, pickled onions, pepitas and blistered tomato confit on toasted, locally made sourdough bread.
For a wider selection—and some more traditional dishes—check out the Old German Bakery on Main Street. For breakfast with a Tex-Mex kick, try Hilda’s Tortillas.
Lunch provides more options; two I would suggest: Vaudeville Bistro and Eaker Barbecue. I love Vaudeville for its French feel and great charcuterie selections. And I loved the Reuben sandwich with Brussels sprout kraut (and I normally won’t eat Brussels sprouts).
Lance and Boo Eaker married his South Texas-style barbecue with Boo’s Korean background, giving the menu selections a decidedly different—and altogether yummy— twist.
Dinner choices range from pizza at West End Pizza and fancier Italian fare at Alla Compagna to Cabernet Grill Texas Wine Country Restaurant with superb seafood and steaks and an extensive list of Texas wines.
Miscellaneous
For something special, schedule a class at Fischer and Wieser Cooking School. Whether it’s a demonstration class or participation class, each session ends with a full meal and wine paring.
Be sure and stop in Das Peach Haus and look at all the F&W jellies, jams and sauces. One of the bestsellers: Roasted Raspberry Chipotle Sauce. I stock up on that and their Champagne Honey Mustard.
Getting There
Driving is the best way to get to Fredericksburg. The fastest route is I-44 to Wichita Falls, then Highway 16 south. You’ll avoid the DFW metroplex mess this way.
However you get there, you won’t regret it, and before you leave, you’ll be planning a trip back. And if you go mid-May through mid-August, you’ll get to taste the best peaches anywhere. Georgia, eat your heart out!
About Elaine Warner
A travel writer for over 30 years, Elaine Warner has ridden in the gunwale of a helicopter, flown in hot air balloons, glided in an aircraft, zip-lined over Palo Duro Canyon and eaten her way through many cities. She draws the line at bungee jumping and hang-gliding. She has written two books, Insider’s Guide to Tulsa and More Than Petticoats: Remarkable Missouri Women.
"Der Kuchen Laden is full of everything you need for the kitchen—and lots of things you didn’t know you needed until you stopped here."
