In true PVCL fashion, every month we spotlight an esteemed Valley chef. For our March Home Issue, we’re taking you somewhere that already feels like home: Phoenix’s iconic Durant’s.
Tucked behind its legendary red leather booths and Sinatra soundtrack is a kitchen led by one of the most influential culinary figures in the region. Chief Executive Chef Marc Lupino is the culinary force behind Durant’s Steakhouse, Steak 44, Ocean 44, and Dominick’s Steakhouse along with Prime Steak Concepts outside Arizona.
Chef Lupino has been leading kitchens for Jeff, Mike, and Dennis Mastro since 2000. A graduate of the Scottsdale Culinary Institute, now Le Cordon Bleu, he is 50 years old, married for 20 years, and the father of twins. Despite the scale of his reach, Durant’s holds a singular place in his career... and in Phoenix dining history.
1. Durant’s is one of the most iconic dining rooms in Phoenix. As the chef overseeing its kitchen, what responsibility do you feel working with a menu that carries so much history?
We wanted to pay homage to the rich history of the brand, but also add new offerings. It was important to preserve items everyone enjoyed.
2. Which Durant's dishes do you consider legendary?
Relish dish, strawberry shortcake, porterhouse and prime rib.
3. What makes the bread service have a cult following?
Simple great ingredients done right. Local fresh bread delivered daily and a crudité to keep with the brand's history.
4. Which steak cut best define the experience?
The porterhouse is definitely a crowd pleaser.
5. Which sides do guests order again and again?
Scalloped potatoes, vodka sauce, mushroom caps.
6. What makes a great steakhouse drink pairing feel timeless?
Classic Martini.
7. You’ve worked with Jeff and Mike Mastro since the late 1990s. How did those early years shape your understanding of great steakhouse food?
Steakhouse food is ala carte and every dish needs to be a star of its own. The best ingredients available... no matter the cost... executed consistently... no matter the volume.
8. What makes Durant’s food stand apart emotionally?
The history makes it a huge responsibility. I hope this restaurant lasts longer than myself.
9. What expectations do you set for your team?
Enjoying what you do and having the passion and dedication to excellence is paramount.
10. Are there small details in plating?
Cold plates with salads and desserts; hot plate with steaks.
11 How do you maintain consistency on dishes that regulars expect to taste exactly the same every visit?
I love what I do and make sure the staff is taken care of and has the same passion and drive.
12. How has Phoenix's palate changed, and how does Durant’s stay true to itself?
In general, restaurants need to change a little with the times. Keep the staples and build more incredible favorites around them.
13. Is there a dish that surprises guests because it becomes their favorite unexpectedly?
Corn brûlée ! I never expected it to become so coveted.
14. Which menu item do first-timers most often underestimate and then rave about afterward?
Crispy shrimp.
15. Is there a specific smell, sound, or moment in the dining room that immediately feels like Durant’s to you?
When Frank Sinatra plays on the playlist.
16. Do you have a personal favorite dish on the menu?
Veal parm.
17. What still excites you about steakhouse cooking?
It's all about the guests and the staff. At Durant's everyone enters through the kitchen so I get to say welcome and good bye to everyone.
18. What is the most common compliment you hear from guests after dining at Durant’s?
Everything was fantastic, thank you.
19. How do you hope longtime regulars feel when they sit down at Durant’s today?
I hope they understand that we wanted to keep the history and charm of the brand and hopefully make changes that will bring it another 75 years.
20. What makes Durant’s the right place to celebrate a milestone?
Share in a little history and enjoy spanning the ambiance, service and food.
21. What do you hope guests leave remembering?
A timeless, classic American steakhouse.
Durant’s Turns 75
James Beard–nominated brothers Jeff and Mike Mastro, alongside Dennis Mastro and business partner Scott Troilo, have taken the helm of Durant’s Steakhouse as it marks its 75th anniversary.
“You never own a legend like Durant’s, you simply look after it for the next generation,” says Mike Mastro.
Following a series of renovations and kitchen improvements, Durant’s has reopened with its signature dining room intact.
durantsaz.com