When I said yes to an 11-day hiking adventure through parts of Spain and Portugal, I honestly had no idea what I was getting myself into. Before the trip, I shared the journey with people and I was surprised by how many immediately recognized the popular Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. Some even admitted they were envious, with the best of intentions. But truthfully, I didn’t fully understand the magnitude of the journey myself, especially since although I am a Christian, I’m not Catholic, .
What I didn’t expect was how transformative the experience would become. Beyond the average 20,000 to 30,000 steps I was taking each day, we explored three charming towns along the Camino routes and had the opportunity to walk through living history at sites like the Roman Walls of Lugo and the breathtaking Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, the symbolic final destination of the Camino pilgrimage.
As a woman over 40 traveling solo, I never imagined my vacation would turn into a restorative adventure with six strangers who felt like family almost immediately. The trip was organized by EF Adventures, a travel tour company that offers guided small group trips around the world.
Within the first 24 to 48 hours of the trip, I was already sharing pintxos (small appetizers) from Spain’s Basque region with the group, exploring one of only three Guggenheim museums in the world, and watching our tour guide freely express his passion for dancing while walking through Bilbao in northern Spain. By the evening, we were embracing the local culture and nightlife before dinner around 8, as is common by Spanish standards.
Throughout our journey, it rained many times during the hikes, but the drizzle felt more refreshing than inconvenient. At one point, I even found myself skipping and singing in the rain. Our guide, Jamie, always made sure everyone felt comfortable, often offering alternative hiking routes based on difficulty level.
One of my favorite moments was the day we explored the Picos de Europa National Park. I chose an easier hiking route to focus on stillness and fully embrace the mesmerizing scenery. Eventually, the entire group reunited in Bulnes, one of Spain’s charming remote mountain villages tucked away in the Asturias region. Jaime also showed us the dramatic cider-pouring tradition known locally as “el escanciador,” a unique ritual part of the region’s culture.
Throughout the journey, we stayed in a mix of historic hotels, from boutique-style properties like the Radisson Bilbao to medieval Parador de Candagas de Onís in Asturias. One of the most memorable stays was the
Parado de Santiago de Compostela, widely considered the oldest hotel in Spain and originally built as a hospital for Camino pilgrims.
Of course, no journey through Spain would be complete without indulging in the local cuisine. One of my favorite dining experiences was Pulperia A Garnacha in Melide, where our group celebrated the end of a long hiking day along the Camino. The restaurant claims to serve the best octopus in the world, so of course I tried it. To my surprise, it was incredibly tender, full of flavor, and a perfect pairing with the Spanish beer Estrella Galicia.
I also fell in love with cod-style fish and chips at Adega Do Chico, a cute little Portuguese restaurant in Caminha.
Along the Camino Francés, Camino de Northe, and Camino Portugés, blue and yellow signs guide pilgrims through the historic paths. While hiking the full Camino can take anywhere from one to six weeks, EF Adventures allowed us to experience different sections of the journey through curated hikes and seamless VIP transportation between routes.
The final dinner at the popular seafood restaurant Os Lusíadas near Porto felt bittersweet. I didn’t want the journey to end, especially after days filled with hikes, coffee breaks, laughter, and creating memories with what now felt like a new family.
In the end, the only thing truly solo about this adventure was that I had to take the first part by myself. From there, the Camino became a journey filled with gratitude, connection, and an incredible group of explorers I’ll never forget.
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