On August 12, 2026 the first of three solar eclipses in three years crossed Spain, and the remote town of Castellnovo provided an ideal home base for impressive and uncrowded viewing. Castellnovo will experience a partial solar eclipse in summer 2027, followed by an annular or “ring of fire” solar eclipse in January 2028. You don’t need astronomical phenomena for an excuse to visit this rural area rich in history and natural beauty, largely untravelled even by Spaniards.
Castellnovo sits between two natural protected areas in the Valencia province of Spain, an hour’s drive from the Valencia metro area.
Masia Durba, a small farmhouse hotel in Castellnovo and an ideal home base for the trip, is built atop the ruins of a Roman villa. A tall cypress tree welcomes visitors to the hotel. According to historians, the number of cypress trees indicated the kind of lodging available to traveling strangers centuries ago.
Masia Durba is marketed towards couples, but families, solo travelers or friend groups are welcomed with the same warm hospitality by proprietor Maria Teresa Durba. She inherited the hotel from her great-grandparents. Her family cultivated plums on the land; now the saltwater infinity pool overlooks decorative olive, almond and carob (a chocolate substitute) trees in the Palancia valley.
Durba’s brother, a furniture importer, outfitted themed rooms with names like “Borneo” and “Madagascar” with ornate carved wooden furniture and textiles to match. Several of the spacious rooms include a hot tub. Each morning, a generous complimentary breakfast spread of Spanish meats, hard-boiled eggs, fresh fruit, coffee and more awaits visitors in the sunny dining room. In the evening, guests can order a multi-course Spanish dinner, all prepared and served by Rafa and Marti, also members of the family. Order the house specialty: torrijas de horchata, a Spanish version of bread pudding, served with cinnamon ice cream.
While in the area, explore Les Coves de Sant Josep, Europe’s longest underground navigable river, a crystalline blue pathway snaking through caves that used to house bats. A steady 68°F temperature provides a welcome respite from the summer heat. Duck when the boatman advises to avoid an encounter with a stalactite. After the tour, lunch at La Gruta, where the dining rooms occupy a natural stone grotto. Savor a paella senoret cooked to your liking, whether “meloso” or the toothsome dry style with the coveted crispy “socarrat” rice at the edge of the pan. A senoret paella is known as a “gentleman’s paella” because all of the seafood is shelled. Start and finish with agua de Valencia, usually made with fresh orange juice, cava and a proprietary blend of white spirits.
Fuente de los Baños de Montanejos is best visited during the less crowded weekdays. Soak in the Blue Flag-certified thermal springs while enjoying views of the surrounding cliffs.
A spring, winter or fall trip is highly recommended, as the summer heat can be scorching, even with all of the nearby cooling waters. No matter what, a trip to one of Spain’s least-visited regions is both relaxing and invigorating.