From distribution and retail to harvesting and pruning, Joe Lertch has spent most of his career in the wine industry, both in the United States and internationally. As the proud owner of the award-winning Vineyard Wine Bar in Havre de Grace for 16 years, he shares his vast knowledge and unique, curated collection of wines with customers, and in the fall of 2025, his book “The Art of Wine & Spice Pairing” (co-authored with Mark Robinson) became available for purchase. As the holidays approach, Lertch has some solid suggestions for wines that will pair with the wide range of foods that often grace the tables of seasonal gatherings, from familiar varietals to lesser-known options that are sure to please guests’ palates.
“One of the things I like [for holiday pairings], generally, are white wines,” Lertch said. “I think dry Rieslings from Germany, Alsace, and the Finger Lakes are versatile, have a good acid backbone, and go really well with a lot of holiday foods.” For reds, Lertch’s personal favorite is from Priorat, but he also suggests choosing a red Zinfandel from California, Tempranillo from Spain, or a Primitivo from Italy, all of which he says are reliable complements to dishes like dark turkey meat, beef, and stuffing.
When it comes to the classic marriage of wine and cheese, Lertch is literally writing the book on it now that his debut guide has been published. His primary recommendation is to source both the cheese and the wine from the same region, leaning into the concept of what grows together goes together. “I like to keep the themes together. The cheeses that are made in France are made to go with French wine. The same with Italy and Spain,” he said. “I happen to love Manchego from Spain, and I love that with a Grand Reserva Rioja from Spain. Italian Asiago and Valpolicella Ripasso are also fun to serve together.”
If you’re looking to pour wine that will complement myriad meals and hors d’oeuvres, Champagne is a top-notch choice. In fact, it’s the one that Lertch would pick if he could choose only one wine to sip for the rest of his life -- and he says it’s a must for midnight toasts. However, in a pinch, you can turn to other bubbles. “If you’re not drinking Champagne, then drink sparkling wine that’s not Champagne,” he said. “You should be toasting with sparkling, and you should probably start with breakfast.” He is also quick to remind that Champagne can only bear that name if it comes from the Champagne region of France.
When it comes to price, Lertch says it’s not necessary to spend a fortune to find a quality red, white, rosé, or even bubbly. “You don’t need to break the bank,” he said. “You can find really good, reasonably priced wines.”
If you’re looking for an opportunity to try wines to potentially serve at your festive fêtes this season, you can stop into the Vineyard Wine Bar and sample varietals that Lertch has sourced from across the globe while learning from the wine bar’s knowledgeable staff. “We offer 80 wines by the glass. These are wines that, in some cases, people have never heard of. We also offer 70 of them in half-glasses, and we do flights so that people can try them,” he said. “We have a big, full focus on education [and] want to give everyone an opportunity to try grapes from all around the world. We love to see smiles on faces as they’re trying something they haven’t before. That’s our reward -- that's what keeps us going.”
I happen to love Manchego from Spain, and I love that with a Grand Reserva Rioja from Spain.